tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-376216562024-03-07T18:57:46.461-06:00Knitting Sweaters & Sitting Still<i>Some</i> people can get a thrill...Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger590125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-85780975053100967142019-03-30T12:59:00.002-05:002019-03-30T18:31:52.611-05:00Big Needle Therapy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/47414375601_ca2cdf17dc_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/47414375601_ca2cdf17dc_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After months of knitting with cotton yarn on 2mm needles, my hands and my brain needed some big needle therapy -- forgiving wool, large gauge, easy-to-see stitches and quick progress. But first, I had to wrap up some loose ends.<br />
<br />
Because the tablecloth was getting bulky and the chances of major knitting disasters at such a late stage in the process were getting higher, I decided to leave it at home when we traveled to Zion National Park at the beginning of the year. I always want to have something to work on for in the air or in the evenings when away from home, so I cast on for a pair of socks using some yarn given to me by my friend Jene at Christmas. Thus, the Fickle Step Socks. They're knit on 2.25 dpns using Quince & Co. Finch sock yarn in a colorway called Honey. Such a great matchup of yarn and pattern. By the time I'd finished the tablecloth, I'd been taking this project around to knitting get-togethers, but hadn't made a whole lot of progress. But as soon as the tablecloth was done I launched right in before the momentum wore off.<br />
<br />
The cables use a double wrap on the row before the stitch crossing, which creates less pull on the lower stitches. At first, I wasn't sure I liked it, but after blocking, the effect is quite nice. I have a tendency to torture cable stitches and this is a handy antidote to that. Not sure if it would be appropriate in all cases, but it worked here. It also made crossing stitches without a cable needle a breeze.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7822/33623620998_ebae06c6ae_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7822/33623620998_ebae06c6ae_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Then it was on to a project and yarn that were both outside my wheelhouse, but just the thing I needed -- the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/jw38f" target="_blank">Arrowhead Poncho</a> by Pat Walker using Kraemer Yarns Mauch Chunky in a color called Blueberry Ice, also a gift.<br />
<br />
It uses 6.5mm (US10.5) needles. I can't remember the last time I knit something on needles this large. It went by so fast! Thirteen days from cast-on to seaming. The pieces were finished pretty much in the first week, and this week was just blocking and waiting for some time to be able to piece this together.<br />
<br />
It's a cool construction -- two long rectangles (mine were 33" x 20") with ribbing across and a couple of squishy cables on one side. Then you sew the two pieces together in a twisted way that creates this natural poncho shape with beautiful cables to frame the wearer's head. On this one, I did use a cable needle. Four-over-Four is a bit much for trying to knit without one. I did attempt it -- once. Then I dug out a cable needle. This thing is warm and heavy. It's not for me, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. I'm leaning toward donating it to a silent auction that my medical librarians' group holds in the fall. We'll see. For now, I'll just admire it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7811/40534437243_f24f74e96e_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7811/40534437243_f24f74e96e_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Already on to more things! I'm working on some self-striping toe-up socks using some yarn I got over the holidays. They're going to have a contrasting toe and heel. And I'm thinking of incorporating German short rows. I've never used them in a pattern before, and I'm looking forward to it. I had a bit of a problem visually while trying to do the increases on the toe with this dark yarn, so I'm anticipating a bit of trouble, but fiddle-dee-dee.<br />
<br />
I'm also thinking ahead to sweaters. I'd like to make Ann Budd's <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cambridge-jacket" target="_blank">Cambridge Jacket</a> because I fancy a zippered cardigan. I like the purl lines that make this interesting -- and will likely help with the fit. It's been a while since I've worked with a zipper so I think I'm up for that challenge.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEkzk0AY9DuTgvvIdFHTM-jxgSo6ojZpNlyw5GtL6be4jOcLt-B_cawvRxLoxn-gsnCUkV0fI-rlCn6zOq_YYf55fhybVzjaXKpjpuMt9ZQeaWf6yuC78U-8JOCm-k1sQLBcNh/s1600/SebastianGreySweater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="484" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEkzk0AY9DuTgvvIdFHTM-jxgSo6ojZpNlyw5GtL6be4jOcLt-B_cawvRxLoxn-gsnCUkV0fI-rlCn6zOq_YYf55fhybVzjaXKpjpuMt9ZQeaWf6yuC78U-8JOCm-k1sQLBcNh/s320/SebastianGreySweater.jpg" width="209" /></a></div>
I also just saw an episode of the current season of Project Runway that had a sweater that really called out to me. It was worn by contestant Sebastian Grey. I kept driving Jeff nuts by pausing the show every time it came on so I could make note of some different aspect of it. I like that it has some fairly muted "me" colors interspersed with stripes in tangerine and lemon yellow, which are so not my thing. But it looks good here.<br />
<br />
I think I could backwards engineer this. It looks like a set-in sleeve, but I think it might work also as a raglan. All the colors looked heathered up close -- the tan, the dark teal and the charcoal gray. I'm thinking solids might work better, but this doesn't look wrong. Something to think about...<br />
<br />
As you can see, getting out from under that tablecloth (literally), has really unleashed my creativity. Hope you're feeling the urge to knit all the things like I am!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-35544432880503644082019-03-12T19:09:00.000-05:002019-03-12T19:09:40.003-05:00Three Hundred Ninety-Three Thousand Six Hundred Stitches<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/33487591468_baec5b1cf4_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/33487591468_baec5b1cf4_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>How do you measure,</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>measure half a year?</i></div>
<br />
I finally finished up my Tannenzapfen tablecloth designed by Herbert Niebling this past Sunday. It was technically 393,636 stitches (not counting the crocheted bindoff edging) and took me six months and a day to complete. And there's over three miles of crochet thread in this thing.<br />
<br />
I didn't post anything here about progress while I worked on this. When working on a stranded knitting or cables, or even plain stockinette, you can immediately see results and take joy in admiring what you've created so far. There are little milestones that allow you to take stock and reassess. But knitting lace is all about deferred dreams. After the first little bit, it's just a wad of holes sitting in your lap. It's hard to photograph, and nothing looks like it should. When it finally comes off the needles, you can see a bit of the potential, but you just don't have any sense of payoff until the blocking. And six months is a long wait for a payoff.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7925/47311040572_8b07a010f3_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7925/47311040572_8b07a010f3_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
At first, I thought that the pine cone motifs, the <i>tannenzapfen</i>, would be the most interesting part. They were actually kind of a pain to knit. I ended up using thin crochet hook because I found knitting all those stitches together rather difficult. I do like how they look now, but it turns out I really like the large leaf-shaped portions best. They almost look like solid fabric next to the super-lacy double yarnovers surrounding them. They were the most boring parts to knit, but seem to me to be the most visually interesting in the end.<br />
<br />
The instructions I used, a simplified and translated version from Doilyhead, said to simply bind off after the 405th round. But I wanted some sort of edging, so I worked out a system where by 11-stitch crocheted chains ended by gathering up 3 and 5 stitch sections along the edge. I worked a few of these into round 405, didn't like the way they worked with the previous round's yarnovers, and went ahead and added a 406th round of plain knitting. It looked much better. And after knitting 405 rounds, adding another one wasn't all that hard a decision to make.<br />
<br />
Blocking this thing is a bit of a bear. It comes from making something knit in the round turn out as a square, which only gets one to square-ish. If you look at the whole thing in eighths, you can see that the corners are where you add some extra stitches. But it still doesn't come out right. There are lumps in the leaf motif that I'm not super happy with. I wonder if ironing the leaves flat would make the tension move out to the double yarnover sections, which, being lacier, might relax and also lie flat?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7899/47311040422_006f3aa35b_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7899/47311040422_006f3aa35b_z_d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There, of course, things I wish I'd done differently. I still had some of those plastic-y ring stitch markers which worked great as visual cues for the beginning and ending of repeat sections. However, at this small gauge, the ring was thick enough to create a noticeable gutter through some parts of the fabric, even in the double yarnover sections. I'm saving those for projects on bigger needles only from now on. I also wish I'd stuck with just the jumbo put-ups of Aunt Lydia's Classic 10 crochet thread. Toward the end, I thought I'd just need a regular ball to finish, and ended up needing more. I think I made five Russian joins as I moved from one ball to another during this project. I could have gotten away with just three if I'd planned better.<br />
<br />
Immediately after setting this out to block in the afternoon, I picked up the socks I started at Zion National Park. I'd only just gotten past the gusset decreases on the first sock when I sat down. By the time I was ready for bed, the first sock was done. It felt so good to be knitting something else!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-54008479581540910142018-08-17T08:00:00.000-05:002018-08-17T08:00:04.769-05:00In High Cotton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1771/29144722887_85f85eb0fe_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1771/29144722887_85f85eb0fe_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
A sweater I'd been working on for a while finally came off the needles this week. It's the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/hygpu" target="_blank">Barry Pullover</a> designed by Martin Storey.<br />
<br />
I'd been thinking about knitting a cotton sweater for a while. When fellow knitters hear that I live in Texas they often assume I'd avoid knitting with wool and would gravitate toward cotton and other "cooler" fibers for knitting. Cotton is indeed the local Texas fiber and runs through my family background. Both of my grandmothers picked their fair share in their childhoods.<br />
<br />
And I do like knitting with wool and and am surprised by how comfortable it can be be in even our mild winters. But I loved and missed the chunky cotton sweaters I'd had back in my 80s college days, including one that was mauled by gibbons (long story). So I thought something like this pullover might be fun. And although the rigidity of cotton yarn was a bit hard on my hands, it was a cool project.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1814/29144722937_69a7bc7bfb_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1814/29144722937_69a7bc7bfb_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The pattern suggested two yarns from Rowan, one a cotton-linen blend which was pretty pricey, and the <a href="https://knitrowan.com/en/yarns/handknit-cotton" target="_blank">100% Handknit Cotton</a> that I chose in a color called Thunder. I wanted this sweater to be oversized, so I chose the 48" chest size to give me some ease. I overshot it. This sweater is big on me - one size down would have been more of what I was looking for. I count 22 ball bands sitting on my table, at 50g each, which matches the finally weight of this sweater: 1.05 kg, or 2 lbs, 5oz. It's pretty bulky! It fits well enough with the sleeves rolled up, so I'm pretty happy with it.<br />
<br />
The pattern is a cable rather than the slipped stitch I assumed it was at first glance. The paired cable motifs consist of a single stitch that is carried over three adjacent stitches. In order to make this work, and to create the neat herringbone effect, the carried stitch is wrapped twice around the needle on the previous row. This took me a while a to figure out but soon became second nature. When stretched out, there is a visible gap between in the area toward which the two cables lean, but when I'm wearing it it's not really apparent.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1840/42273383640_c0f167d95a_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1840/42273383640_c0f167d95a_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
There were two other techniques involved in this sweater that were knew to me, both involving the seaming. The side panels were in reverse stockinette. I wanted to use mattress stitch for these, which I'd never done in reverse. It's a matter of picking up "smiles" on one side and corresponding "umbrellas' on the other, which wasn't too tricky, except on the sleeves with all their increases. But unlike stockinette, where I usually pick up a few stitches on each side of the seam, I figured out that for the reverse stockinette bumps to interlock correctly, I had to seam one-to-one.<br />
<br />
For setting the sleeves into the armscyes, I used <a href="https://youtu.be/vNu8Wi0VP4M?t=18m36s" target="_blank">Andrea's instructions for backstitching a sleeve</a> from the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCry9BOQv1BhE5k9c9oHnxTw" target="_blank">Fruity Knitting Podcast</a>. It worked fairly well, although I wasn't exactly consistent between the two sleeves. Since the backstitching is working on the wrong side, I couldn't tell what the visible join was going to look like until I was all done. There are slight variations between the two sleeves, but nothing I'm going to worry myself about. I'm glad I gave it a try.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1772/29144723027_b327e19bca_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1772/29144723027_b327e19bca_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
In a little nod to wool, in the pictures I'm wearing the <a href="https://www.harristweed.org/" target="_blank">Harris Tweed</a> cap I bought while in Scotland recently. Interestingly, I saw more weaving-related activities than knitting ones while there. I'll try to write up a post about the fibery aspects of that trip soon.<br />
<br />
Here's to cooler weather arriving soon!<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-9634830001662811662018-06-10T11:45:00.000-05:002018-06-10T11:45:12.570-05:00That's a Wrap<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gU0Ua-H48nE7S5d6xz2yVJxA3WTyAU-7zu75mC_6vtyNbh4kCQ0bCuuZ_vOEMAgu1ZegoccAxBoZ2WCMU3TAQODnM4xxF86d1MuQsB4WuWKKOpjaVIePOwdovkh7vYuNDqq7/s1600/41793076605_74d048e32e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gU0Ua-H48nE7S5d6xz2yVJxA3WTyAU-7zu75mC_6vtyNbh4kCQ0bCuuZ_vOEMAgu1ZegoccAxBoZ2WCMU3TAQODnM4xxF86d1MuQsB4WuWKKOpjaVIePOwdovkh7vYuNDqq7/s320/41793076605_74d048e32e.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I finished up my Orenburg Style Wrap this weekend.<br />
<br />
I made this out of Filatura di Crosa Superior laceweight yarn, a blend of cashmere, silk and merino that is a joy to knit with. Tinking back? Not so much. Once it's knit up, it's pretty snaggy and hard to undo. But still, well outside my usual knitting wheelhouse and fun to try. It's so soft. And so light. The finished shawl is about 44" long and 21" wide. The whole thing weighs 43g, or 1.5 oz.<br />
<br />
The construction was new to me. It starts with a crochet chain provisional cast-on from which one of the outer edge patterns is then worked, but incorporating short rows so that it comes to a point. This forms one of the corners. I never quite got the stitch count right while doing this for the first corner, although the exact same instructions worked fine on the other three, so the problem was definitely user error. After the first corner is complete, the lower edge is knit and another series of short rows creates the opposite corner. Then stitches are picked up from the edge just created and the whole piece is worked completely side-to-side, with both the interior panel and the other edge strips being made at the same time. On the far edge, short row corners are created similar to the first edge, but instead of picking up stitches, the new edge picks up live stitches from the last row as it's knit. I wasn't really clear what was going on for a while - a diagram would have made this easier for me.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NvusCOtUL-_J85FEkaCWd1mBZIV5-1ipHbmnojFyNVJ6JUdNwfdga6zbjhiU8mgMYvgurz5Ungf2RjUwkVwJqv7OO87BAVNsez5QNL8bHiY-_ut0plsOutwzISySlfuCsUJI/s1600/40883522810_b05b756f7c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NvusCOtUL-_J85FEkaCWd1mBZIV5-1ipHbmnojFyNVJ6JUdNwfdga6zbjhiU8mgMYvgurz5Ungf2RjUwkVwJqv7OO87BAVNsez5QNL8bHiY-_ut0plsOutwzISySlfuCsUJI/s320/40883522810_b05b756f7c.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The original pattern says the finished wrap should be roughly 30" x 65". It suggests 3mm needles, but I found that my 3mm needles were too dull for all the K2togs required for this, so I borrowed some sharper needles that only came in 2.5mm. It seems that this .5mm difference translated to quite a bit of a difference in width and length. Mine just drapes over the shoulders -- it doesn't hang down into the crook of an arm. It might work well as a lightweight neck scarf if doubled up.<br />
<br />
I'm amazed at how warm this fabric is. For not weighing much, it sure traps in the heat. I had to be careful to keep it to the side rather than in my lap or else it got quite uncomfortable. I'm also impressed with design choices that make this pattern quite accessible. Unlike the Niebling lace patterns I've made, Natalia Shepeleva's design doesn't fuss with the directions that decreases run. That is, you don't have to match a left-leaning decrease with a corresponding right-leaning one. The decreases aren't really part of the design, other than keeping the stitch count balanced with yarnover increases, so it doesn't really matter. And, it's garter stitch lace! That is, it's completely reversible with no "wrong" or "right' side. I had to really concentrate to not purl on what I thought of as the "wrong side" during the first few rows.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzA4dSDK-u-f_jmEsxhuRvblhDfY_zyhYMJIP9eo5LLbNzRlszYFMrd3BC-TMxivyZe-n4Oy_NC2qmf_ZCL9_KLVkEpXvVJomxjSpeCrGrF1pHHgGSxpa-vUaX3S3ZowO9k0md/s1600/41793076365_91360d9636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzA4dSDK-u-f_jmEsxhuRvblhDfY_zyhYMJIP9eo5LLbNzRlszYFMrd3BC-TMxivyZe-n4Oy_NC2qmf_ZCL9_KLVkEpXvVJomxjSpeCrGrF1pHHgGSxpa-vUaX3S3ZowO9k0md/s320/41793076365_91360d9636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Although there is no right or wrong side visually, it helped to think in those terms for the purposes of tracking my way through the charts. For any given row with a side chart, a diamond chart, a center chart, diamond chart again and side chart again, one of the side charts was always one row in front of the others, meaning that the beginning of the "row" wasn't actually at the beginning of the row. Not sure is this is the way it was supposed to be, but it's the way my turned out. As long as I kept track on the charts, I was fine. And after a while I was familiar enough with them that if I got lost, I could find my place again with just a bit of counting.<br />
<br />
Up next I'm thinking of making a cotton sweater I've had my eye on. I've got the yarn and I've been swatching. Before I got the pattern, I thought that perhaps it was a slipped-stitch pattern, but now I find it's a cable pattern. So this is going to take a bit longer than I thought. Probably won't get it done in time for an upcoming trip, but I'll try.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xWoQ7oasX27IjdD8DEBXOrwT6ansUvf-cwuYK5ujk6k4piV64KRx0pHt5wyRsz4ngLsuZRcXYVlFGu8G0UQChL9KE6m-K_jq1nJ-MOEV1mCGcTGl4Wt_Ly9M4PRTmrY0YkpB/s1600/41815949505_919e7eaf54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xWoQ7oasX27IjdD8DEBXOrwT6ansUvf-cwuYK5ujk6k4piV64KRx0pHt5wyRsz4ngLsuZRcXYVlFGu8G0UQChL9KE6m-K_jq1nJ-MOEV1mCGcTGl4Wt_Ly9M4PRTmrY0YkpB/s320/41815949505_919e7eaf54.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-48422302309617109112018-04-29T11:56:00.000-05:002018-04-29T14:09:36.287-05:00Don't Dawdle, Amaryllis<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/905/41063479244_03a6ae8785_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="500" height="306" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/905/41063479244_03a6ae8785_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Unlike Marian Paroo's piano student of the same name in <i>The Music Man</i>, this Herbert Niebling <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/9jooc" target="_blank">Amaryllis</a> pattern seemed to fly off the needles. One month exactly from cast-on to blocking.<br />
<br />
There's just something about the symmetry and pattern of lace knitting that I really enjoy. To start from just 8 stitches in the center, expanding outward in an expanding spiral that gets increasingly slower as you go. By the end, there were 960 stitches on the needle, with each round taking upwards of an hour to complete. And all done with one long piece of cotton thread and just a few a basic stitches. It's all so very satisfying, like putting together an intricate puzzle or constructing a complicated model. I really do like lace knitting more than I ever thought I would. And these Niebling patterns, while intricate and seemingly complicated, are really quite accessible to more knitters than you might think. They're definitely worth a try.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/967/41740860672_5e87fc4113_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/967/41740860672_5e87fc4113_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the pattern alongside my neighbor's Amaryllis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unlike the two Herbert Neibling patterns I tackled last summer which were roughly oval-shaped (<a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/b8v3x" target="_blank">Georg</a> and <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/obul2" target="_blank">Flieder</a>), the Amaryllis pattern is round. So there was no picking up of stitches to connect different sections -- just one giant spiral -- which was a lot easier. However, putting in life lines across so many stitches was a bit problematic - but necessary. A few times I found mistakes -- usually right after putting in a lifeline, but in each case I was able to figure out what I'd done wrong, ladder down the stitches, and re-create the pattern correctly. This is so much harder to do in lace than in more traditional stockinette knitting, but do-able if you pay attention to which row you are on. And if you're patient. And if the problems are fairly simple. I found that the surest way to avoid problems was to do a lot of counting as I went -- this left leaning section has 13 stitches on this row, the yarnovers in this direction always take place after 4 plain stitches -- that sort of thing. I have a tendency to do that in my head about all sorts of things anyway, so I kind of find it soothing.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yssbYv9xv4DHbNeWCUZm7j80D1_0VcEfiSss025kvd6YUHneCJR_4gxvJzpXkyb0Ul564de_ESf30ER-nQpw4AmM9YuecBX0UQ7qdDqhqJK_6icaylIx3dbcS4C-sc6UXKhh/s1600/patternsample.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="131" data-original-width="263" height="99" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yssbYv9xv4DHbNeWCUZm7j80D1_0VcEfiSss025kvd6YUHneCJR_4gxvJzpXkyb0Ul564de_ESf30ER-nQpw4AmM9YuecBX0UQ7qdDqhqJK_6icaylIx3dbcS4C-sc6UXKhh/s200/patternsample.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sample from Amaryllis pattern</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This pattern can pretty much be done from the charts -- I didn't have to rely too much on the brief instructions in German that I'd run through Google Translate. There was one section I couldn't quite figure out, which features a small box near a place where the chart seemed to shift over. It looked like it read <i>5 M. z.</i> , although it was a bit fuzzy. The key in the original pattern reads <i>Maschen zurück d. h. so viel Maschen der folgenden Runde, wie die Ziffer im Zeichen angibt, auf die letzte Nadel der vorigen Runde rechts stricken.</i> Google Translate kicked this back as <span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Mesh back d. H. knit as much stitch as you want on the next round as indicated by the number in the symbol on the last pin of the previous round on the right</i>.</span><i style="color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </i><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Even this didn't quite make sense to me (wish I could figure out what that d. h. abbreviation means - maybe something about the round marker?). I ended up removing the beginning-of-round stitch marker, knitting 5 stitches, replacing the marker and continuing. Seeing that visual 5 stitch difference between rounds 107 and 109 made me think this was the way to go. For the rest of that round, each of the 16 markers (one for each Amaryllis blossom) had to be slid over 5 stitches. It seemed to work. And that strange little 5-stitch section of stockinette has no effect on the entire piece, or course. Not sure if this is what Herbert intended, but it's what happened.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/965/26912549057_e31f280306_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/965/26912549057_e31f280306_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blocking this thing was a bit of a bear. I used my thinnest blocking wires and ran them around the outside through every other gathering of stitches at the base of each of the 224 edge points. Then I bent them gently into arcs and tried to get a uniform diameter. It ended up varying between 32" and 33" inches across. Sadly, one of the blocking wires bent permanently. But I was able to get it more or less round. Then I needed to pin out the points. I used all of my T-pins and a bunch of yellow-headed pins that I'd gotten at some point. I still had about 50 points to pin. I found a package of safety pins and opened up each of those. Then I grabbed 8 pins from a shirt I'd just bought and unwrapped. Still two short, so I grabbed some cork board push-pins. Whew. It was close. <a href="http://tt820.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Janelle</a> told me that T-pins make great stocking -stuffers. Just sayin'. While it was damp, I sprayed the whole thing with spray starch (need some more of that, too) and by the next morning it was dry. I love that swishy sound it made when pealing the stiff cloth off the blocking board. Since removing it from the pins and wires, it has tended to gather in a bit and won't lie quite flat. I think it would work better if it were draped over a small table. Still not entirely sure what this tablecloths ultimate fate will be. But so glad I made it.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">What's next? More lace, I think. But brightly colored. And much softer... Thanks for stopping by!</span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-79875772926002064562018-03-25T11:43:00.000-05:002018-03-25T11:47:35.566-05:00Jujika Cowl<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/822/39185846700_22039d2d72_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/822/39185846700_22039d2d72_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I finally finished the Jujika Cowl yesterday. The major knitting took about three weeks. Then I spent a week and a half just seaming the thing.<br />
<br />
This cowl is basically a deflated tire tube, or a flattened donut. Or a torus with no volume inside. You get the idea. It's constructed as a long tube knit in the round. The last round is a seaming round that then joins the last round knit to the first round knit. When everything is done, it should look like a solid piece of fabric. More about that later.<br />
<br />
I didn't swatch for this project, figuring it wouldn't really matter being a thing that drapes around a neck. It doesn't really have to "fit" anything, right? About halfway through I regretted that decision. The whole thing was supposed to be about 26 inches long. Mine was 19 inches. I blocked it rather aggressively, not always the wisest thing to do with this rather delicate Brooklyn Tweed Loft, and managed to get it to 24 inches, although it has since shrunk a bit. I'm happy with the density of the fabric and I think larger needles would have made the fabric looser than I wanted. As it is, I can see some of the opposing yarn catches showing through the fabric.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4775/40300064294_e0e74ec696_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="498" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4775/40300064294_e0e74ec696_d.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
After blocking the un-seamed tube, one is supposed to unzip the provisional crochet cast on and put it on a needle, then graft between the two pieces using a Kitchener-like stitch. It is Kitchener, but you start the 4-step sequence in a different place, and using the color that matches the stitches on the lower needle. Yes - grafting 270 stitches in two different colors. At first it seemed like it was going okay, despite the usual tension issues I have with Kitchener grafting. But then, to my horror, I realized that I had little bars of the opposite color popping up here and there.<br />
<br />
It appears that when I knit the very first row of this thing onto the provisional crochet stitches, I had twisted the yarn, probably as a result of trying to catch the opposite color yarn behind. But in doing so, I had caught the opposite yarn <i>within</i> stitches rather than <i>behind</i> them! Can you see the bits of white popping through in the top half of the photo? And the blue strand caught inside the white stitches in the bottom half? Warning to those who try this pattern themselves -- don't bother catching the yarn in the first row. In fact, if your stranded knitting tension is good, you might consider avoiding catching the yarn at all. It's not like anything is going to catch on long floats; they will all be locked away.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/796/40116121385_669682910c_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/796/40116121385_669682910c_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
What to do? A cast-on row can, in theory, be picked out and re-knit in the opposite direction, but this is really difficult to do (it doesn't just unravel like the last row) and seemed like a lot of work to fix one row. So instead of fixing it, I decided to hide it. I ran a bit of waste yarn through the cast on stitches and tied the ends to together. It's there now, just dangling somewhere within the cowl, unseen. Then, I used a smaller needle (good idea, <a href="https://verypink.com/" target="_blank">Staci</a>!) to pick up the right leg of the stitches of the next row down (or up, depending on how your'e looking at it) and re-knit the last row in the opposite direction. This does shift everything over half a stitch, but as it turned out, it's not all that noticeable in such a small stitch pattern. I did have to adjust the beginning step of the grafting instructions to accommodate this, but it all turned out fine. In the picture to the right, you can see the seam line a bit, but I don't think it's too distracting. It's really a clever design - I just wish I'd been able to make it work the way it was supposed to.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/40285983004_7817361ab0_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/40285983004_7817361ab0_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
There is a small bit of inflexibility along this seam because of the waste yarn behind, although I tried to keep that as loose as possible. And because of my usual tension issues with Kitchener stitch the seam is noticeable in places, but overall I'm pretty happy. I tried it on myself (it's not really me) and it hangs about right when completely open as in this picture. I thought I should be able to double it up and have a tight-fitting neck warmer, and I could, but it wasn't easy and it wasn't pretty. The effect was a bit too Uncle Fester. I may re-block this again just to try and smooth out the seam and try to get a bit of extra length to it.<br />
<br />
Glad I made this, though, and I have an idea of someone to give it to. What's up next? Not sure, but I'm thinking of diving back into the world of Herbert Niebling lace patterns...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-80242426366302495922018-02-25T18:02:00.000-06:002018-02-25T18:02:08.450-06:00Hands and Feet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4706/25614800607_113b84dc6e_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4706/25614800607_113b84dc6e_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Since last time I checked in, I made some socks. And more mittens. I'm kind of out of control.<br />
<br />
After finishing the pairs of mittens for my sister and sister-in-law, I started looking at all the yarn I had leftover from the kit and thought I really should do something with all of it. The colors I had the most of were all the shades of brown. Perfect! At first I thought I'd make a hat, but wasn't sure I had enough. I knew one thing I had enough yarn for, though -- more mittens.<br />
<br />
I searched Ravelry for Fair Isle mitten patterns that used five colors, but didn't really see anything that spoke to me. So I started flipping through my copy of Ann Feitelson's <i>The Art of Fair Isle Knitting</i> for some ideas. There were some mittens featured as a pattern, but they were a bit subdued for the yarn I had on hand. Then, on page 50, I ran across just the thing.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_mTqvPqfR75qOvOTyDX3pm8yoNW0SPI9Xx8DD-qX54KimpuANfqeTxGRhrO6ENVcmmCZL0KEsgjOENLA3ZWuLKbSV-o2_yLN5J5l_wxQihuEA5MlbQ78TrWwzIuZNUkZRqlw/s1600/Mittens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_mTqvPqfR75qOvOTyDX3pm8yoNW0SPI9Xx8DD-qX54KimpuANfqeTxGRhrO6ENVcmmCZL0KEsgjOENLA3ZWuLKbSV-o2_yLN5J5l_wxQihuEA5MlbQ78TrWwzIuZNUkZRqlw/s320/Mittens.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Feitelson's <i>The Art of Fair Isle Knitting</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There in the margin was a pair of vintage mittens that Feitelson uses as an example of common items that Fair Isle knitters might make. Next to the caption "Mittens, the work of today's older hand knitters, (ahem)" was a pair of mittens that really captured my imagination. They appeared to use six colors, but I thought I could adjust. However, now that I was smitten with mittens, I'd have to figure out the pattern myself.<br />
<br />
With much squinting at the photo and a bit of guessing, I was able to chart out the pattern by using an Excel grid with different background colors. It was very slow going, but it really helped me figure out the symmetry. While making it, I kept thinking that the person who originally made these likely just had a few common motifs in her head and designed it as she went. I made a chart for the left hand, and then for the right. The original mittens have the thumbs arising from the palm, but I didn't have any idea how to do that having never done it myself, so using the patterns from the kit I'd just used, I charted out a thumb jutting from the side and keeping the pattern from the palm all the way around. Afterwards, I charted out the top of the thumb that is added at the very last after the body is complete. Once I had it done in Excel, I downloaded a PDF copy, and then pulled it into my KnitCompanion app so I could keep track of where I was as I went.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4662/39775321334_d39c180c20_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4662/39775321334_d39c180c20_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm surprised at how smoothly this all went. Luckily, the number of stitches in the mittens in the book matched up with the number in the kit patterns, so I could refer to that when I got in the weeds. I'd originally planned to make a 62-round pattern, but since the last round involved a color change right at the end, I left that last round out and used Kitchener stitch to close the finger tips across the last 20 stitches.<br />
<br />
The thumbs were super fiddly and involved multiple yarn color changes across just 19 rounds of knitting. I use the same method used to catch floats in fair isle knitting to introduce new colors and weave out old ones. This adds a bit of time to the knitting, but is so worth it (to me) at the end when I can just turn the whole thing inside out and snip off all the dangly bits without having to worry about them coming undone. This was really hard to do inside the the thumb which was basically a 24-stitch tube. But still worth it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4659/40442961862_00f8675823_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4659/40442961862_00f8675823_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
I'm pleased with the results! I do wish that I'd been left with some more heathered colors to use. I think the overall effect is a bit more graphic than the original. The only heathered color is a goldish one (called Camel Heather) that you can see as the first color past the wrist ribbing. All the rest were solid colors. And they didn't always play nicely. I got several inches into my first mitten when I realized two colors weren't contrasting enough and went back to the drawing board, or rather, the spreadsheet. Jeff likes the tan background color (Almond), but that's the one that bugs me the most. The heathered grayish-blue in the original is so much more, I don't know, subtle and fluid. Still, I think the whole things works. These are too small for my hands, so I'll hold on to them and find someone with daintier hands to give them to.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4764/40073302142_33f7e8acb8_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4764/40073302142_33f7e8acb8_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I also made some socks at some point since the beginning of the year. The yarn was a Secret Santa gift from my friend Abbe and boy, does she know the kinds of things I like. It's Crazy Zauberball yarn in a colorway called Herbstwind (Autumn Wind). I love all the greenish blues and dark reds. Like other Zauberball yarns, these are kind of hard to predict where they'll go with their striping so I chose to use a solid yarn for the toes and a matching afterthought heel to pull it all together. The rest is just 2x2 ribbing across 72 stitches, with solid stockinette across the soles. I'm really happy with them. I finished them about a month ago, and am just now realizing I haven't worn them. That window may have closed, though. I'm afraid our cold weather is mostly gone for the year. They'll be there for me next year, though.<br />
<br />
Not entirely sure what's up next. I just got a book from the public library, the <i>Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible</i> by Hitomi Shida. It's absolutely gorgeous and I'm entranced by all the intricate patterns. I'm sure some of these could be used to make some socks, a cowl, a scarf, a hat...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-71953513531505546302018-01-04T10:35:00.000-06:002018-01-04T11:55:05.375-06:00Knittin' Mittens<center>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4739/38496451514_6071711e6d_m_d.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4739/38496451514_6071711e6d_m_d.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4733/25628056878_562d24ce5c_m_d.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4733/25628056878_562d24ce5c_m_d.jpg" /></a>
</center>
<br />
<br />
Over the past month, I made some mittens for my sister and sister-in-law.<br />
<br />
I mentioned in my last post that I still had two pairs of mittens to make from the Knit Picks Woodland Winter Mittens kit I'd bought seven years ago. I still hadn't made the November and December patterns, which I thought were the most striking. Perhaps I was saving them for last because they were my favorites? In any case, my plan had always been to make the November pair for my sister and the December pair for my sister-in-law, since their birthdays fall in those months.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4636/39176473172_aeaea910e9_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4636/39176473172_aeaea910e9_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The November pair features a scene of deer in the mountain on the back of the hands, and a bold plaid pattern across the palms. It uses five of the Knit Picks Palette colors. I was supposed to use a color called Camel Heather for the light brown section, but accidentally used a color called Almond. Except for losing the heathering effect, I thought it looked fine and decided to stick with it rather than ripping way back. Everything else about it was just fine. From cuff to fingertips, the colors are Bittersweet Heather, Celadon Heather, Almond, Iris Heather, Pennyroyal, Bluebell (I think Knit Picks has renamed that last color Bluebird in the meantime).<br />
<br />
This color scheme is called Original and was the only option when I purchased it. Knit Picks also offers this pattern in a much brighter option, bordering on day-glo, called Bright, and a newer color scheme called Stormy that features a lot of dark broody greens and browns. Let's be honest - that's probably what I would have gone with if it had been available back in the day. But I still think the Original color kit shows off the patterns best.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4732/24630937597_4846e1dce1_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4732/24630937597_4846e1dce1_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The December mittens are darker, featuring a mountainscape with the Aurora Borealis shining above and a little wolf just above the left-hand cuff. This one uses the dark Bittersweet Heather color as the primary color, and has six, rather than the five contrasting colors of the November mittens. They are, from the cuff up: Iris Heather, Pennyroyal, Oyster Heather, Green Tea Heather, Celadon Heather and Bluebell. I love how the colors sweep up, and how the green of the aurora seems to be reflecting off the top of the mountains. What I've also always loved about these patterns is the way the picture carries across the two mittens. When wearing them, the wearer can't see them because they're on opposite hands. But if the wearer holds them up in front of her face, anyone looking at her can see the complete picture.<br />
<br />
As I learned after making the first few pair the thumbs on this pattern, at only 20 stitches in circumference, are rather snug. So I added four stitches at the base of the thumb. This allowed for a bit of extra girth and allowed me to pick up stitches at the problem area where the thumb meets the main body of the mitten, closing up any gaps. The down side is that this broke up the carefully thought-out pattern on the thumbs. This was more of a problem on the December mittens than the November ones, but it's not too jarring, I think.<br />
<br />
I gave the November pair to my sister while we were in Colorado recently. I gave my sister-in-law the one finished mitten on her birthday, promising to get the completed pair to her soon. It's going in the mail today! Kind of sorry this kit is finished, but happy that I finally got around to all of them. I hope these keep their hands toasty warm for the rest of the winter and for winters to come.<br />
<br />
Next up, a pair of socks, I think...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-57942367050716925982017-12-10T11:04:00.001-06:002017-12-10T11:04:13.957-06:00Alchemy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4684/38245603534_d7c6145a14_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4684/38245603534_d7c6145a14_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Jeff asked me to make him a sweater for an upcoming trip to Colorado with family. I happily obliged, hoping to have it finished by his birthday. I completed it with a week to spare. One month exactly from cast-on to bind-off.<br />
<br />
This is the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/nrexs" target="_blank">Alchemy Pullover</a>, featured on the cover of Issue 3 of the new <a href="https://ribmag.com/" target="_blank">Rib Magazine</a>. The designer, Lars Rains, was unfamiliar to me, but he's quite a prolific designer who specializes in working with color and texture in interesting and innovative ways. The sweater is made with 10 colors of <a href="https://www.brooklyntweed.com/shop/arbor/" target="_blank">Brooklyn Tweed Arbor</a>, which I purchased from <a href="https://hillcountryweavers.com/" target="_blank">Hill Country Weavers</a>. There's a also a 5 color version of the pattern, which I thought was very clever and thoughtful. It almost tripped me up a few times , though, when I flipped open the magazine to consult the charts and thought I'd made a mistake, only to realize I was looking at the wrong version.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/38925125732_02d63b6f8b_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/38925125732_02d63b6f8b_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Since I had to check gauge in the round anyway, it made sense to me to just start making a sleeve and count that as my gauge swatch. As luck would have it, I was spot on with the recommended needle size (US7, 4.5mm). So I made both sleeves first, and then started in on the body of the sweater. The sizes made a leap from 42 ¾" to 46 ½" and it called for a few inches of ease. The smaller size would have left only a tiny bit of ease, so I went with the 46 ½" size. It's an inch or two roomier than I might like normally, but better bigger than too snug. Plus, I can wear it also. Just sayin'...<br />
<br />
Lots and lots of brown stockinette in the round. I was kind of in heaven. But then the real fun started. Each color in the yoke is used for 8 rounds at a time, with a new color being introduced every four rounds. All but two of the colors are used twice. As an added layer, texture is introduced through purling. I was rather used to knitting with two colors, one in each hand, but I was quite unused to purling with my right hand. I found it quite difficult and now understand while some new right-handed throwers are averse to purling. All that moving the yarn back and forth! So much easier in the left hand. As with any stranded pattern knitted in the round, there is a visible line where the pattern rounds change. You can see this over Jeff's left shoulder in the picture above. I think it's only really noticeable at the top with the yellow and brown.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/25089825008_1bf500680e_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/25089825008_1bf500680e_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The one part that that I'm not entirely satisfied with is the collar. It's just more simple stockinette in the round in brown above the yoke, but then goes into a 2x2 ribbing for 15 rounds, finished with Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-off. But something about the decrease rate, or maybe just shoulder and neck anatomy in general, makes the fabric gather and bunch up a bit. I've seen this happen in other yoked sweater patterns, but not sure why. So it looks a bit "roomy" in the neck area. I'm thinking, though, that this might not be a bad thing, giving a bit of comfort around the neck, but also trapping warm air in cold weather. I'll go with that.<br />
<br />
Speaking of weather, you may notice traces of snow in these pictures. I took these in the morning after a freak late-autumn snow flurry the night before that hit central and south Texas. So unusual at any time, but especially this early in the chilly season. The college where we work had a delayed opening, which allowed us to get this pictures taken. I'm hoping we see a bit more snow than this when we head to Colorado in a few weeks. I know this will keep him snuggly and warm. I'm so pleased he likes it. Happy birthday, Jeff!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4564/27184291449_7279cb65f7_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4564/27184291449_7279cb65f7_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Next up, I'm going to finish the last two pairs of the Woodland Winter Mittens kit I got from Knit Picks in 2011. The kit came with enough yarn and six patterns to make pairs of mittens representing the six colder months. Texans - use your imaginations! Within a year of getting the kit, I'd made the mittens for <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/epbmm" target="_blank">October</a>, <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/jr53o" target="_blank">January</a>, <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/laygp" target="_blank">February</a> and <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/lz2ok" target="_blank">March</a>, but had never made the ones for November and December. I'm not sure why - I'd just set the box aside. From time to time I would unearth the yarn and pattern and remember I needed to get back to them. Now seems to be the time. I've gotten started on the November pair, which features mountains and a large ungulate (elk? moose?) on the back of the hands and a pretty plaid pattern on the palms. They might make nice gifts for people I know who were born in these months...<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-40285066406836073762017-11-04T14:22:00.003-05:002017-11-04T14:23:45.698-05:00Younger Folks & Textured Yokes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4482/38136338142_0bdce4c167_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4482/38136338142_0bdce4c167_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I spent much of yesterday finishing up a baby blanket for the newest person on my block.<br />
<br />
It's the Pick-a-Knit blanket from <a href="https://appalachian-baby-design.myshopify.com/" target="_blank">Appalachian Baby Design</a>. I made the large size, using one of their kits, which comes with the pattern and two balls of each of the three colors in the blanket - a light silvery-gray, a beige tone, and a natural cream color. The cotton is all organic, and quite soft to the touch. And very washable. Perfect for a new little one.<br />
<br />
I knew going into this that there would be a bit of pain and strain. Because of cotton's lack of give compared to animal fibers, knitting with cotton can be hard on the hands, depending on how tightly the knitter holds his yarn and needles. And I tend to hold them both with a death grip. I don't know why, but I've always had trouble maintaining a light touch and "soft hands" while knitting. It usually doesn't bother me, but cotton can really exacerbate the tension. My thumbs are a wee bit sore and I have a little twinge in my left elbow, but I think it was worth it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4524/37457991054_76b528e49f_q_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="150" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4524/37457991054_76b528e49f_q_d.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4582/38112370856_15eaec926b_q_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="150" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4582/38112370856_15eaec926b_q_d.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4570/37457991284_fe8805690a_q_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="150" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4570/37457991284_fe8805690a_q_d.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Yesterday I finished it up, wove in the ends, washed it and dried it. It's all ready to be boxed up and taken down the street to my new little neighbor. I started this a few days after she was born last month. I hope she hasn't gotten too old to appreciate it already!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4522/38168074711_18043f4fee_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4522/38168074711_18043f4fee_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And here's a little something I just have to share. A few years ago you may recall that a young neighbor of mine asked me if I would teach him to knit. We cut a deal - I'd teach him to knit if he showed me how he made paper airplanes. Let's just say, he was a better student than I was. And, to my immense pride, he has kept at it. He's since become interested in so many things (building ramps for his bike to jump off of, Little League baseball), but we still talk about knitting from time to time as I walk the dogs by his house. When I was out of town at a conference a few weeks ago, he gave Jeff this sample that he had knitted and asked if he would make sure I got it. I love this so much - the colors, the effort, the pride in knowing how to do something that not everyone can do. A while back, he asked if I would make him a blue hat, and it's never quite happened. It's going to happen soon, I promise.
<br />
<br />
Next up on the list of things to make is a sweater for Jeff. He doesn't ask for them that often, but when he saw this pattern for a sweater called the Alchemy Pullover in the latest issue of <a href="https://ribmag.com/" target="_blank">Rib Magazine</a>, he said he wanted one in the exact colors shown. This pattern comes in a 10-color variation and a more affordable 5-color version. He said he wanted all 10 colors. I mentioned that this would be more expensive, but he just shrugged and I'd grabbed my keys and was out the door before his shoulders had lowered. My goal is to have this finished before his birthday in mid-December and before we head up to Colorado around Christmas-time for a family get-together.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4522/24315857068_e46f5b0457_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4522/24315857068_e46f5b0457_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Swatching for this needs to be done in the round, since that is how this is constructed. A swatch in the round is going to look like the beginning of a sleeve anyway, so I plan to just start knitting a sleeve and measuring for gauge once I get a few inches in. If I have to rip back and start over, so be it -- it's what I'd have to do with an unsuccessful swatch anyway.<br />
<br />
Eagle-eyed viewers might note that there are only nine skeins of yarn showing in this photo for a 10-color pullover. I'm recycling some of the yarn in the color called Gale (yet another shade of gray) from my <a href="http://knittingsitting.blogspot.com/2017/10/river-rocks.html" target="_blank">River Rocks</a> scarf. I think I have enough left over of this that I can just use it. See -- I'm saving money already!<br />
<br />
Need to go cast on for a sleeve right now. Happy knitting!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-11018972559811579072017-10-08T17:46:00.000-05:002017-10-08T17:47:41.770-05:00River Rocks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4492/37548421432_a8316e384f_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4492/37548421432_a8316e384f_d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I'd been wanting to knit something from the new men's knitting magazine <i><a href="https://ribmag.com/" target="_blank">Rib</a></i> since it came out, and issue #2 had a pattern that caught my eye -- the River Rocks Scarf.<br />
<br />
I liked the graphic pattern, and it used a technique which seems quite popular these days, but which I'd never used - brioche stitch. Brioche is a type of double-knitting, using two strands of yarn that are knitted separately row by row, yet intertwined in such a way as to make a very dense fabric. It creates many pockets of air surrounded by wool, perfect for garments that benefit wearers through trapping warm air near the skin, such as scarves and hats.<br />
<br />
This scarf pattern uses two colors to create a reversible pattern that looks quite different on either side. The dark side contains the "river rocks" motif, which uses increases and decreases to create tiny circles that mimic rocks which appear to be breaking up a current. The lighter side, which I prefer, is more linear and graphic. I wanted a contrast, which is why I went with dark (Porter) and light (Gale) tones of gray Brooklyn Tweed Arbor yarn here, though I imagine the river rocks would have shown more if the two colors weren't in the same family. But this guy just needs knit with gray yarn every so often.<br />
<br />
The pattern calls for 18 repeats of a 24-row motif, with increasing/decreasing business going on in one out of four rows. Because I had the yarn for it and wanted just a few more inches, I did 19 repeats. It wasn't too complicated, but keeping one's place in the repeat was essential. I messed up more than once, putting a pebble in the stream where it didn't belong, and had to rip back three separate times. A lifeline helped in that regard, although for the last one I was able to rip back just a few rows and get everything back on the needles correctly. Brioche stitches are hard to backwards engineer when trying to fix mistakes. Having contrasting colors helped. If this had been one solid color, fixing in such a way would have been nearly impossible.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4487/23728132558_1dedb5133f_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4487/23728132558_1dedb5133f_m_d.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4460/23728132628_2b53aa5116_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4460/23728132628_2b53aa5116_m_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I'm not entirely sure I got the two-color Italian cast-on executed correctly. That edge flares in a strange way. But I did figure out the sewn two-color Italian bind off and it looks pretty neat and tidy. The final thing is about 72 inches long and between 7 and 8 inches wide, since the edges ripple. The instructions said to block it, but I don't think I'm going to just yet. I'll wait until the first time I wash it. Looking forward to wearing it in Colorado this winter!<br />
<br />
What's next? Another baby blanket, because babies keeping popping up all around. And a sweater for Jeff because he asked, and I learned long ago to not question these rare requests. More on those later.<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-15860505961401353362017-09-09T17:52:00.000-05:002017-09-09T21:14:46.957-05:00Fibonacci Stripes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4340/36941286526_4e5d74d1eb_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="500" height="318" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4340/36941286526_4e5d74d1eb_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This past month (well one month and one day), I've been working on a striped sweater using yarn handspun by <a href="http://tt820.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Janelle</a>. It's finished!<br />
<br />
While visiting Gettysburg this past summer, I got to admire all the amazing handspun yarn that she's made over the years. Noting that she couldn't knit it all, she said I could take a batch of whatever I want. Janelle's palette runs decidedly blue/green, so this batch of cranberry red yarn really jumped out! We both knew it wasn't enough to make an adult sweater, but she suggested that maybe I could work in another color in some way to stretch it out. After I got back to Texas I bought some in Brooklyn Tweed Loft in a grayish-brown called Barn Owl, and this is what I came up with.<br />
<br />
I'm using the general crew-neck raglan pullover recipe as outlined in Ann Budd's <i><a href="https://annbuddknits.com/books/the-knitters-handy-book-of-sweater-patterns-basic-designs-in-multiple-sizes-and-gauges/" target="_blank">The Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns</a></i>. I've had this book for years, and it's a great go-to source for when you want to branch out on your own in knitting a sweater, but still need to fall back on well thought-out formulas for increasing and decreasing and just general fit.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4399/37130343715_4d5d0275fd_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4399/37130343715_4d5d0275fd_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I couldn't quite get gauge for the 44" in sweater size I wanted to make. But I followed Ann Budd's instructions for adjusting gauge. I ended up using the instructions for the 40" sweater, but following the lengths described in the 44" sweater and it worked like magic! I didn't get quite the ease I wanted, but that's a different type of math, involving adjustments to exercise frequency and taco consumption. Ahem.<br />
<br />
I needed to insert the contrasting color in some sort of interesting way, but wasn't sure how. I knew from other design things I've perused that the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibonacci_number" target="_blank">Fibonacci sequence</a> often produces eye-pleasing results, so I played around with a spreadsheet, adjusting strips and measuring row-gauge, before coming up with a plan. I skipped the number 1 and came up with alternating rows of red and gray/brown yarn in the following sequence: 2-3-5-8-13-8-5-3-2. That is, after 1/3 of the sweater being knit in red, I started with two rows of brown, two rows of red, three rows of brown, three rows of red, etc. Originally, I thought that the top 1/3 of the sweater would be brown, but I decided I had enough to make the top red, and I think it looks much better that way. I did the sleeves the same way, and they more or less match. I like how from a distance, it looks as if you're looking down on a striped cylinder. It also give a sense of motion if I squint just right.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4372/36316909433_8bba6f1375_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4372/36316909433_8bba6f1375_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The cuffs, hem and collar are all done in 8 rounds of seed stitch. I love seed stitch, and one day I'd like to make a sweater that is entirely of it. This stitch made a good edge for the most part, although the hem still tends to curl up when I'm not wearing it. It seems to behave once it's on me. I did have an issue with the bind-off. Traditional bind-offs are notorious for forming a tight, inflexible ridge, which can cause problems getting garments on and off. I thought that going up a couple of needle sizes would take care of that, but as you can see, it wasn't enough. I probably could have tugged it down over my ears and nose, but I wasn't confident I would be able to ever remove it. So I undid the bind-off, put the stitches back on the needles, and used Staci's sewn tubular bind-off. It's very easy, I think, and although the directions are for 1x1 ribbing, seed stitch is basically a variation on that and it seemed to work just fine.<br />
<br />
Although it's made of alpaca and wool, I was surprised how un-hot I was in it in our low-80s temperatures when we went to the back yard to take some pictures. The main problem was all the mosquitoes that have appeared since our copious Harvey-related rain. I can't wait until it cools off a bit so that they all go away, and I get to wear my new sweater.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-46507710449445558712017-08-06T12:14:00.000-05:002017-08-06T14:22:51.452-05:00Lilac<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4355/35570528014_af1d0c4a4a_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4355/35570528014_af1d0c4a4a_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
As it gets hotter and hotter and the world gets crazier, all I want to do is stay indoors and make pretty lacy things.<br />
<br />
This one is <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/obul2" target="_blank">Flieder</a>, another Herbert Neibling design, but about three times larger than the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/b8v3x" target="_blank">Georg</a> doily I made last month. <i>Flieder</i> is German for lilac. Neibling produced more than one pattern with this name, but I'm not sure how he saw anything bout lilacs in this particular pattern. The central flower has six petals, and little lilac blossoms have four. Still, it's Neibling's world and we're just living in it. <i>Flieder</i> it is<br />
<br />
While shopping for thread -- and I got each of the three balls from three different craft stores in Austin -- I saw that Aunt Lydia's Classic Crochet 10 comes in a light purple, dare I say, lilac color. But that would have been a bit too literal and I would never have used it. White is the way to go with this, I think.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHHr-dIT1PVwxhVYWxFR4CPxj-gzM1QclmNgOpyjGbIwrKLtv1Pq0tdGOo3uSfoESDtVDiOdVUdwuwcpjwXwDymAl8Jp2W-yUl3LjCGk47H3XI2_th80SopFIJZsptqpmWTTvd/s1600/Flieder-Marked.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHHr-dIT1PVwxhVYWxFR4CPxj-gzM1QclmNgOpyjGbIwrKLtv1Pq0tdGOo3uSfoESDtVDiOdVUdwuwcpjwXwDymAl8Jp2W-yUl3LjCGk47H3XI2_th80SopFIJZsptqpmWTTvd/s320/Flieder-Marked.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
For those interested in such things, here's a little schematic of how this particular sausage was made.The central portion, marked in green, starts with 6 stitches in the middle, one for each petal that grows outward, knit in the round. After completing that, the two sections marked in, let's say, lilac, are knit flat (back and forth). After this, stitches are picked up around the purple sections along with the held live stitches from the remainder of the green so that the work is again done in the round. Four rounds of dense purling with the thread held doubled follow, and then 20 repeats of the pattern are knit up to the orange line. After that, the pattern shifts to 40 repeats. That's a lot of stitch markers. And a lot of stitches on the needle. By the end, there were 1,440 stitches on a 32" needle. I don't have a US0 (2mm) 47" circular needle. I wish I did. Things got quite crowded. I also experienced that weird thing with center-out projects -- the closer you get to the end, the slower your progress. It can be a bit maddening. Everything up to the orange line took 5 or 6 days to knit. Everything outside of that took an additional two weeks.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4418/36237708872_4547fa86a0_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4418/36237708872_4547fa86a0_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Please don't think that all this explanation is meant to impress, or to warn you off lace knitting. My point is that it's not nearly as hard you might think. I've made two oval examples, which are probably more fiddly than most. I would think that a square table cloth or round doily would be a bit easier, but just having a basic idea of the construction, using Google Translate, and finding some online German/English knitting glossaries is all you really need to get started. Then it's just a matter of not dropping stitches and not loosing one's place in the pattern. And time.<br />
<br />
This fits our dining table perfectly, which was a fluke, really. I just lucked out on that one. I'll likely just use it for special occasions. This morning, I set out some of my Grandma Self's china on it to see what it looks like. The story in the family is that my grandmother didn't really even want fancy china, but my grandfather insisted that they get some while they were living Germany after WWII and had the means -- they'd been so poor when they got married during the Great Depression. It came down to me eventually. A scent I noticed as a I was pulling it out of the cabinet triggered a sense memory of my grandparents house and Thanksgiving dinners in San Antonio. And they look great together, I think, German dishes on a German-designed doily. My family has had so many connections to Germany -- my Kohrs and Weber ancestors immigrating from there to Texas in the 1850s, my grandparents and father living there 100 years later, and my brother's family making their lives there now.<br />
<br />
Only 109 days until Thanksgiving!<br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4419/36405449275_c65759160e_q_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="180" data-original-width="180" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4419/36405449275_c65759160e_m_d.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4417/36009003580_dd80939cbc_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="180" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4417/36009003580_dd80939cbc_m_d.jpg" /></a>
</center>
<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-72296767574994602752017-07-08T18:27:00.001-05:002017-07-08T18:27:38.381-05:00The Doily Chronicle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4207/35672696441_48a5d00af2_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4207/35672696441_48a5d00af2_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
When I started knitting twelve years ago, I would have scoffed at the idea of spending time and effort making a lace doily. But today, I finished my first one -- the Georg doily designed by Herbert Niebling.<br />
<br />
And I say first one, because I'm going to likely make more. Yes, they're challenging and fiddly, but as a process knitter, theses are the things I kind of like about knitting. Seeing the symmetry inherent in the pattern gives a certain satisfaction. And observing how the squares and symbols on a lace chart translate into leaves and petals makes me want to keep going to see what happens next. Then, of course, there's the challenge of keeping all the balls in the air as it grows and grows. The first round of this project, started in the middle, had 8 live stitches. By the time I got to the cast off, there were nearly 500.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/35764081276_15a2e5d7f3_n_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/35764081276_15a2e5d7f3_n_d.jpg" /></a></div>
Here's a walk through how this thing is constructed. Starting at the pinhole cast on in the center, the central flower is eight repeats of the same motif knit in the round, creating the petals, with slight variations on opposite sides to set up the oval extensions. Those sections are knit flat (purling on the back side) out to the ends. Then, stitches are picked up around the oval extensions along with the remaining live stitches from the sides of the central flower. A 20-round pattern repeated 16 times around the whole doily created the leaf points and lace edging.<br />
<br />
Then, all that's left is the crocheted points around the outside. The first round serves to bind off the edges of the knitting and create little loops. The second round builds on those, plus pulls the ones opposite the leaf points together. I was intimidated by this part because my crochet fu is not strong, but I think I managed. It was a little tricky to figure out how do the attaching, but I just picked a method and stuck with it. I found myself really wishing my crochet skills were stronger as I finished this up.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4218/35416250480_a550337c60_n_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4218/35416250480_a550337c60_n_d.jpg" /></a></div>
I completed the crochet edging yesterday afternoon and went online to find out some blocking options. One was to mix some liquid starch and soak the whole thing, but the video examples I saw led me to believe that it would end up too stiff. I wanted it to have some structure, but I didn't want it stiff as a board, either. I decided to go a bit simpler. I soaked it in warm water (which left the water strangely murky -- this is just cotton, what was up with that?) then placed it flat on a towel draped over my blocking board. Then I got out the regular can of spray starch that I use when I iron shirts (ahem, which isn't often) and went to town. I pinned out all the outer loops to make points. This part was fairly tedious. Not sure I did the tidiest job, but it looks pretty good overall.<br />
<br />
In the original design, the central flower, a few rows in the middle and the crochet loop points were all done in a black yarn (see below). Couldn't quite see the point in that -- I thought it looked a bit odd. But tastes change. Consider that one of the staging shots for one of the patterns in the book features an ashtray with a lit cigarette resting on a doily. Not something you'd likely see in a pattern book today!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58qmWCkDyMCkCvE-Umaxvd-cQvytzYxP58a6_eKyZK0JKUlWuHGSHwJqQIiycZ99cHcmawX-fE_wp0myA1zfXrGqr5m56yzPica45VuKyZSVTH40FvwKPt6U1fXqEg19grWTG/s1600/samples.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="967" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58qmWCkDyMCkCvE-Umaxvd-cQvytzYxP58a6_eKyZK0JKUlWuHGSHwJqQIiycZ99cHcmawX-fE_wp0myA1zfXrGqr5m56yzPica45VuKyZSVTH40FvwKPt6U1fXqEg19grWTG/s320/samples.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I enjoyed this project way more than I had anticipated. I was surprised by the sense of dimension in the finished object. The way that the fields of stitches and lacy holes ran in different directions created textures and shading that I hadn't imagined. I'd always though of lace as being very two dimensional, but it doesn't have to be. I was so impressed at the thought and care that Niebling put into this design so that everything lined up and worked together just so. I want to knit more!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-8639368942072264132017-06-20T20:26:00.003-05:002017-06-20T20:26:55.465-05:00Doppelumschlägen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/34594379044_7b9235ab9f_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/34594379044_7b9235ab9f_d.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
My latest knitting adventure involves intricate lace patterns. Written in German. Help.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://rovingcrafters.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/herbert-niebling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="345" data-original-width="400" height="276" src="https://rovingcrafters.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/herbert-niebling.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
For a while I've wanted to knit a fancy lace design by the German lace designer Herbert Niebling (1905-1966), a man who needs a Wikipedia page if anyone does. He churned out hundreds of intricate knitting patterns for tablecloths and doilies in the mid-20th century. Many of the designs feature stylized flowers and plants. Reading through their names is like reading a German botany book -- <i>Eiche</i> (Oak), <i>Ahornblatt</i> (Maple Leaf), <i>Hängeblume</i> (Hanging Flower), <i>Löwenzahn</i> (Dandelion), <i>Erdbeere</i> (Strawberry), <i>Tannenzapfen</i> (Pine Cone) -- the list goes on and on. Then, randomly, there are patterns with people's names attached to them. Some of these patterns are enormous and would take months of painstaking work. Some are just tiny little coaster-sized things. I kind of want to knit them all, but can't figure out how any human being could ever knit all these in a lifetime, much less design them, too.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/34594379044_7b9235ab9f_n_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/34594379044_7b9235ab9f_n_d.jpg" /></a></div>
I decided that for my first foray, I'd settle on something smaller than a tablecloth, but which I could still trot out as a centerpiece for nice dinners. Having something like this, I assume, will make me want to host nice dinners. I decided on a pattern called "Georg," which is oval-shaped and doesn't really have to fit over a piece of furniture -- it just just has to lie flat on top of it. Plus, a knitter in Ravelry had already made a beautiful example and had basically translated parts of the pattern for English knitters. Decision made!<br />
<br />
I got some crochet thread and some size US0 (2mm) needles and got to work. And then started over. And then started over again. I was having trouble with the double yarnovers in the pattern and dropping stitches left and right. I finally managed to fall into a rhythm, but it was a bit of a struggle.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4211/35048992980_61d5ebaa08_n_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4211/35048992980_61d5ebaa08_n_d.jpg" /></a></div>
After finishing the 40th round, I finally dug around on some online forums to find out more about double yarn overs -- for non-knitters, this is wrapping the yarn around the right needle twice. Very simple. The effect is to create a hole in the fabric, which is kind of lace's thing. But working these loops on the next row is another matter. I just knit into them again, which created a strange string that draped across. Since the row after that involved decreases that pulled the previously-created holes to one side or another, I didn't really think anything about it. It looked okay to me. But reading today, I found that everyone one in the lace-knitting universe knows that you don't just knit into those two loops. You either knit then purl, or purl then knit, or knit then knit into the back of the next loop. But one thing they all agreed on: one simply does not knit into a double yarnover twice on the next row. See the triple-strand ladders running between the honeycomb-like holes in this detail? That's what happens when you do what I did. Why didn't anyone tell me this?<br />
<br />
Well, apparently, Herbert Niebling did. Right there in his instructions, he says <i>Auf jede Musterrd. folgt 1 rd. rechts, in der man nur aus den Doppelumschlägen 1 M. link 1 M. rechts strickt</i>, which Google Translate kicks out as "On every pattern follows 1 approx.(?) on the right, in which one knit 1 st on each side from the double turn." I've learned that the German words for knit and purl translate as "right" and "left," so "knit one stitch on each side from the double turn" is basically knit and purl into the double yarnover.<br />
<br />
So now my favorite new German knitting vocabulary word is <i>Doppelumschlägen </i>(double yarnover)<i>. </i>And now I know what to do with these. So it looks like I'll ripping back to row 11 again. In the meantime, I need to get back to lurking on the forums to see what other tidbits about lace knitting I don't know. Nothing like learning a whole new language in a whole new language.<br />
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-23478401169943298442017-06-11T10:30:00.000-05:002017-06-11T10:30:09.905-05:00Taking the Wraps<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4271/34138536943_7b57abcf06_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="375" data-original-width="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4271/34138536943_7b57abcf06_d.jpg" /></a></div>
After the challenges of the Marius pullover, I was ready to work on something a bit more calming and mindless. Nothing for that like knitting quadrilaterals.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4268/34908624056_42d22534f2_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="180" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4268/34908624056_42d22534f2_m_d.jpg" /></a></div>
First up was the Sommerbrise Schal, the yarn and pattern for which I got from Heidi, the proprietor of <a href="http://www.maschenwerke.de/" target="_blank">Maschenwerke</a> in Frankfurt last summer. Andrea from <a href="http://fruityknitting.com/" target="_blank">The Fruit Knitting Podcast</a> had graciously taken us there to see her beautiful shop, and while there I saw a beautiful scarf that Heidi had knit using two kinds of Ito yarn, Gima 8.5 which is a sort of cotton ribbon, and Sensai, a mohair/silk blend. So out of my wheelhouse, yet so light and airy that I thought I'd give it a try. Of course, I went for some darker colors than Heidi, but she helped me select a dark navy Gima and an electric blue Sensai that worked well together.<br />
<br />
I cast on for this in November, but I didn't really get started until a month or so ago. It's a relatively easy pattern, with the two different yarns held together for much of the project, but then using only the dark color for stripes that gain in frequency toward one end. It was beautiful to knit with, and a real lesson in working with fibers and yarns outside one's comfort zone. It was a fantastic exercise. It's only 50 inches long, but can be bunched up around the neck nicely. Not exactly my cup of tea fashionwise, but I'm thinking of taking it to a silent auction that a professional group I work with runs in the fall. I'm hoping it will raise some money for student scholarships.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4219/34376254564_3e61326892_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4219/34376254564_3e61326892_m_d.jpg" /></a></div>
Then, after knitting with friends on Saturday a few weeks ago, my friend Jene and I headed over to <a href="https://hillcountryweavers.com/" target="_blank">Hill Country Weavers</a>' new location and talked each other into knitting their free A Biased Scarf pattern with some Freia Handpaints Ombre lace yarn. I choose a dark gray that slowly morphs into a bright acid yelllow/green. It's a pretty easy pattern - cast on 80 stitches, increase and decrease one at the ends of each right side row, and purl the wrong side rows until you run out of yarn. I started with the dark end. Although the pattern was simple, I enjoyed the slow gradient shift toward the brighter end. Since it's knit on rather large needles for a laceweight yarn (US 6, 4mm), it has almost no curl after blocking. It really is quite beautiful and drapey. Again, though, not really my style.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkDZ9VQ2j21yadnwcmae2U0EDLwp028vcuXvh0UxQPf1gjQGhTivUoWesmSz0z37jUM1sINukviX9fR8tD8SJZ0NP0BYVR8CIx9NNmAoKo3cJrz291DsMoQCAoMJU6897_iZn/s1600/IMG_7980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkDZ9VQ2j21yadnwcmae2U0EDLwp028vcuXvh0UxQPf1gjQGhTivUoWesmSz0z37jUM1sINukviX9fR8tD8SJZ0NP0BYVR8CIx9NNmAoKo3cJrz291DsMoQCAoMJU6897_iZn/s200/IMG_7980.JPG" width="250" /></a></div>
That's why I'm giving it to our friend Rhonda. She and her husband David have become such good friends in the last few years and I wanted to do something to show my appreciation for all they've done for me and Jeff. I think she likes it and it looks great on her.<br />
<br />
Up next in the world of things you wouldn't imagine I'd want to make -- a lace table runner. Weird, huh? I've always thought they were beautiful, and I've lately become obsessed with the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/designers/herbert-niebling" target="_blank">intricate designs of Herbert Niebling</a>, many of which are named after plants and flowers. I'm particularly enamored of one called "<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/georg" target="_blank">Georg</a>" which is oval shaped. I think an oval-shape would require less "fitting" around a table. Also, it wouldn't cover the whole piece of furniture. I've never done anything quite this intricate before, and I have the feeling I'm not fully aware of what I'm getting into. First of all, there's tracking this pattern down. It's been reprinted in at least one book since it was produced in various pamphlets in the mid 1900s, but that book is hard to come by. I'm trying to get it through interlibrary loan at the moment. If that fails, I may have to bite the bullet and see if I can get a copy from an online auction, although they are rather expensive.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4265/34376643844_58cf8b570a_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4265/34376643844_58cf8b570a_m_d.jpg" /></a></div>
On top of that, there is the fact that this requires very thin cotton crochet thread, and very tiny needles. I'm not really scared of either of these things, but I'm aware the potential for frustration is quite high. Then there is the issue of translation, although other people who have knit this say the German isn't too difficult and the charts are pretty easy to figure out. Here's hoping.<br />
<br />
So that's on the back burner for now. In the meantime, I've ditched the socks I'd had on the needles forever. I'd gotten started on them, got uncharacteristically distracted by something else, and then set them aside and the mojo was lost. So instead, inspired by Janelle, I'm using the sock yarn to make a Sockhead Slouch Hat. I've wanted to do one of these for years and it's the perfect placeholder to keep me busy until I can track down Georg. I know he's out there somewhere...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-29194861211447355832017-05-02T21:51:00.000-05:002017-05-02T21:51:05.091-05:00Multifarious Marius Precariousness<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33597416333_d49fa7034a_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="375" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33597416333_d49fa7034a_z_d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
It ended up being way more complicated than it needed to be, but at last my Marius Sweater is finished.<br />
<br />
When I last checked in, I had realized that my gauge had changed once I started in on the patterned portion of the body of the sweater and had ripped that section out and started again on larger needles. This absolutely did the trick. But then, after re-knitting about 2/3 of the black-and-white portion, I realized that my yarn dominance was off. This means I was carrying the wrong color in the wrong hand. Ultimately, this doesn't really matter, as long as one is consistent with which color is carried in which hand. But I really wanted he white color to pop, and I had my yarn configured so that the black yarn was dominant.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjroay2cyjyaDjyCC2fVL9SJxw7cdLdsV1ci_V1CCty2gTD-J6hf4UQo9bcSs53y6j8De_3mMm7jZlv2PBHJTc8_CP-PgCvw9lLRtl9_dRLF8jAj6MLwajgbAA02q20mmPdVD7x/s1600/dominance.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjroay2cyjyaDjyCC2fVL9SJxw7cdLdsV1ci_V1CCty2gTD-J6hf4UQo9bcSs53y6j8De_3mMm7jZlv2PBHJTc8_CP-PgCvw9lLRtl9_dRLF8jAj6MLwajgbAA02q20mmPdVD7x/s200/dominance.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
In the picture to the right you can really see what's going on in the striped steeks. At the top, I carried the black yarn in my left hand. At the bottom, I'd re-knit the same section with the white yarn in my left hand. When knitting with two yarns, the one in the left hand tends to stick out, for most knitters anyway. Usually, I consult my copy of Ann Feitelson's <i>The Art of Fair Isle Knitting</i> before starting stranded colorwork to make sure I get this right, but this time I was just sure that the dominant yarn is carried in the right hand. Oops. Wrong. So, I ripped back yet again.<br />
<br />
The third time was the charm -- gauge and dominance were just fine. But I'd already knit the sleeves. With the wrong gauge and the wrong dominance. So I re-knit those, too. It really didn't take that long. The pattern in the sleeves is simpler, without the complex X motif of the body. When finished, I crocheted the steeks, cut the armholes open, and sewed on the sleeves. They fit really well, to my surprise -- I saw a lot of examples online that looked bunched up. And then I tried it on.<br />
<br />
The sleeves were too short. About 6cm (2.5") too short. You can't unravel a cast-on edge. Well you can, but you'd go insane. So I picked up stitches just below (or above) the cuffs, snipped off the cuffs, added 6cm of stockinette and then re-knit the cuffs. And THEN I was done.<br />
<br />
This really is a cool pattern, and not as complicated as I've made it out to be. I just got so excited to get started that I forgot a lot of the details that would have made this go smoother. If I'd been more thoughtful about gauge and yarn dominance, I would have had this finished in half the time. Fortunately, I'm a total process knitter, so getting it right doesn't bother me. And it wasn't like I was on a deadline -- I only had to have it finished by December, when I'm going with my family for a big ski vacation. Even if I just sit around and sip hot adult beverages the whole time, it will have been totally worth it.<br />
<br />
Winter is coming!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2894/34365878296_73c0d089b1_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2894/34365878296_73c0d089b1_m_d.jpg" width="150" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/33574328374_fe8f2c823d_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/33574328374_fe8f2c823d_m_d.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4181/34285346371_630879b065_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4181/34285346371_630879b065_m_d.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-63706261918732096322017-04-07T20:08:00.002-05:002017-04-07T23:10:59.974-05:00De-Tension Slip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3948/33772223931_ed3b29f1f4_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3948/33772223931_ed3b29f1f4_d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Now you see it, now you don't. Generous readers will assume that the bottom picture is the "before" picture and the top picture the "after." That's really sweet of you, but you're wrong.<br />
<br />
I'd noticed in the sleeves that the tension tightened up a bit once I started the colorwork. This is normal and par for the course with multicolor stranded knitting. Yarn is carried behind the work and isn't interlaced with nearby stitches. This lessens the stretchy property of a knit fabric, which by it's nature should be flexible in all directions. You can see how it pulled in once the white yarn starts n the photo bellow. But I still thought it looked acceptable and likely fixable with a bit of blocking.<br />
<br />
Then, while knitting a few nights ago, I noticed that the body of the sweater was pulling in, too. A lot. I noticed this when I was less than 10 rounds from finishing the body. So I stopped to think. And think. Here's what I concluded:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Blocking wasn't going to fix this problem. I'd have to be pretty aggressive about it, and the pattern would be too stretched</li>
<li>The fabric was too dense, with little drape to it. I didn't want to it to feel like I was wearing cardboard</li>
<li>If I just forged ahead and cut the steeks, I'd have a bunch of pieces of cut yarn and re-knitting would be a splicing nightmare</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/33280619100_dea870914c_m_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/33280619100_dea870914c_m_d.jpg" /></a></div>
So, I unraveled it back to the start of the colorwork. Sigh.<br />
<br />
Here's what happened. The pattern called for knitting a gauge swatch, but didn't specify to knit it using the pattern. I suppose any experienced Norwegian knitter would know to do this. I would know to do this, too, if I were knitting a garment that was all stranded. But if not given instructions as to how to swatch, I usually just do the first thing that happens in the garment, which is a big old field of black stitches. I'd had to go down a size, in fact, to get gauge. So now, I'm going to go back up a needle size to get a bit more room at the top.<br />
<br />
There's no teacher like experience. But I'm not discouraged. Process knitters knit. It's what we do. I'm kind of excited, actually, to get another crack at this beautiful pattern. Back to it! And while I'm at it, I just might revisit those sleeves, too...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-71345838350009635812017-03-26T13:46:00.000-05:002017-03-26T13:47:09.014-05:00Sleeves Achieved<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2905/33664671905_2201d500e7_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="375" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2905/33664671905_2201d500e7_d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<br />
I finally got the red yarn I needed for my Marius Sweater sleeves in the mail on Friday and quickly went to work finishing up the sleeves.<br />
<br />
I'd wanted to get the sleeves completed first to make sure that I was making the armhole steeks the correct height for the sleeves. Several pictures I'd seen of knitters who have attempted this pattern show that the armholes are bit smaller than the sleeves, resulting in some bunching when they are sewn in. I'm thinking that if I know exactly how side the sleeve openings are, I can try and make my steek for the armholes match. That's the plan, anyway.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3853/32851203423_e4db80b35f_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3853/32851203423_e4db80b35f_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm pleased with how the stranded knitting portion looks. I was a little worried that the white/black combination might be too stark, but like most stranded knitting, it looks a bit better from afar. The fabric does pull in a bit where the white yarn starts, but that's too be expected. I haven't blocked this yet, so I'll be able to add a bit of stretch. I'll need to do that anyway before I measure for the armhole steeks.<br />
<br />
I switched from the grayish green Petroleum color for the highlights, collars and seams to the more traditional red, and I think it was the right decision. The grey was kind of sickly looking and just didn't add enough contrast. The red, which is the traditional color for this part of a Marius sweater, is perfect. I was a little worried that it wouldn't pop against the black enough, but it does just fine. If it looks like the sleeves are a bit short, that's okay. This is a drop-sleeve construction, so the sleeve seems are supposed to fall a few inches down from the natural drop in a person's shoulder. I normally don't like this kind of sweater -- I prefer set-in sleeves -- but it's kind of what you have to put up with for stranded knitting. It's possible to do a capped sleeve in fair isle, but way more complicated. And this, ultimately isn't that complicated a garment.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/33280619100_dea870914c_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/33280619100_dea870914c_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
A testament to this is the two pages of instructions. They seem a bit sparse to me, with no schematics of how the pieces fit together. Translated from Norwegian and written in the mid-20th century, I think the designer made certain assumptions about the person reading this person -- their skill, competence, and knowledge of knitting in general. I've been able to follow pretty well, except for a strange few missing stitches toward the top of the pattern charts. Usually, this denotes that some sort of decrease has taken place, although there is nothing in the written instructions that would indicate I'm supposed to do that. After consulting with experts, I came to the conclusion that this indicated a re-set point. All the stitches are supposed to work right and left from a mid-point on the outer edge of the sleeve. You count out from that point to find out where on the chart you start and stop, depending on the size you're knitting. For most of the chart, that's based on a 10-stitch repeat, but for the last few rounds, it shifts to a 4-stitch repeat. So I just reset from that point to figure out a new starting point that resulted in the pattern matching across the whole grid. This is a bit difficult to discuss without showing the pattern, but I didn't want to do that. Trust me when I say that this took up a LOT of time trying to figure out, and that whether I'm right or wrong, I'm satisfied with the explanation I've told myself. At this point, please, don't correct me if I'm wrong! The reverse stockinette at the top is mean to be hidden when the sleeves are attached.<br />
<br />
So now it's just back to the body of the sweater and inches and inches and rounds and rounds of knitting with black yarn on black needles connected with a black cord. I'm sitting under very good light, but it can be a bit of a challenge. I'm eagerly looking forward to the stranded portion at the top of the body of the sweater, which is similar to, but much more elaborate than those on the sleeves.<br />
<br />
As I've tried to find out more about this pattern, I'm stunned at how ubiquitous it is and almost universally recognized in Norway. So many cool things out there. I know things are warming up around here, but next time you have a cool snap, keep your eyes open!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dw-JciU6v7eu0KGgJNWoBTc2S5lMmlNhzBL2u6fIGvbWb_eJgb0Ek-wykCl1ftXZhnc67F7cyVKUcPa8BlNsrUluhuaNcV7MkXNHuFrKt4MKPYIuZfep_jD2rjlfoAmJYd0i/s1600/marius-cup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dw-JciU6v7eu0KGgJNWoBTc2S5lMmlNhzBL2u6fIGvbWb_eJgb0Ek-wykCl1ftXZhnc67F7cyVKUcPa8BlNsrUluhuaNcV7MkXNHuFrKt4MKPYIuZfep_jD2rjlfoAmJYd0i/s200/marius-cup.jpg" width="100" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqODQiM8M5_Jnpuk6DUpHyErHy-rFyr7W_CXuRkxRNRWGUyQn1Uo8nxVbb_wd6sZoTnSLrAzddVKAr_me-OwnlRMX7bw6XeWADYJvmkIgXcGQSu4HH4zFWsgn1rjdosryYGAs/s1600/marius-tiles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqODQiM8M5_Jnpuk6DUpHyErHy-rFyr7W_CXuRkxRNRWGUyQn1Uo8nxVbb_wd6sZoTnSLrAzddVKAr_me-OwnlRMX7bw6XeWADYJvmkIgXcGQSu4HH4zFWsgn1rjdosryYGAs/s200/marius-tiles.jpg" width="111" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4SX1tYy_yEm0a3VdC_CQAxmN2E4WpE1HSd3FHAfTuc4dJCeaoSR6Jq3fYw4fXb6tmiz3FMIWEFw98gRZjJdcZ3oMatFYkTFGj8DPoOgDIa1_3H9J1xBBYulF2boCA6-EMoeO/s1600/marius_car.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4SX1tYy_yEm0a3VdC_CQAxmN2E4WpE1HSd3FHAfTuc4dJCeaoSR6Jq3fYw4fXb6tmiz3FMIWEFw98gRZjJdcZ3oMatFYkTFGj8DPoOgDIa1_3H9J1xBBYulF2boCA6-EMoeO/s200/marius_car.jpg" width="150" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYqiKpkzZV1SLTzXGeF9H_k0Kc332w0jZ7c_iXvUeByYPSeZpQclsnJPVos3GnUNF6wAUjg7j8ZUD-XPAV06bjcDU06C1_iHajLXMv7zeV6FQRVHrZ0eNC8ynbPYzI89keO_dr/s1600/mariuswalls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYqiKpkzZV1SLTzXGeF9H_k0Kc332w0jZ7c_iXvUeByYPSeZpQclsnJPVos3GnUNF6wAUjg7j8ZUD-XPAV06bjcDU06C1_iHajLXMv7zeV6FQRVHrZ0eNC8ynbPYzI89keO_dr/s200/mariuswalls.jpg" width="150" /></a>
</div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-71061944267554142812017-02-26T17:59:00.003-06:002017-02-27T13:47:52.035-06:00Baby Love<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3916/33010101111_4af80a8f34_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3916/33010101111_4af80a8f34_z_d.jpg" width="550" /></a></div>
<br />
Another work colleague and friend of mine is expecting, and rather sooner than I was expecting (as if I had a say in the matter), so I had to knuckle down and try and get this finished ASAP. And that was today.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33010101421_946defe1e1_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33010101421_946defe1e1_z_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/tot7y">Baby Love Blanket</a> pattern is designed by Meg Hollar. It's sweet and simple, but a bit time-intensive. It's knit in sport-weight yarn on pretty small needles. I used size 3.25 (US3) needles. It took 10.5 balls of Knit Picks Shine Sport in a color called Wisteria -- a pretty pale purple. It's a 60/40 mix of cotton and rayon, so it has no give and isn't kind to the knitter with lapses in tension consistency. It can also cause a bit of hand strain. But, I love the beautiful shine on this yarn and the cool shading effects that happen when viewing the knit and purl panels from different angles. And, it's going to easier to care for than many of the other baby blankets I've made in the past year. I've already tossed it in the wash and dried it and it help up just fine.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2946/33095539316_2897022f58_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2946/33095539316_2897022f58_z_d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
It's a fairly simple pattern, all knitting and purling, with no shaping to speak of. The nature of the little heart motifs mean that the blanket is totally reversible. And after the first row or so, it's easily memorize-able, especially with the liberal use of stitch markers. I used different color stitch markers for the panels in which hearts were to appear, switching them out and re-position as I moved from row to row. I always forget how heavy cotton is. This is not a huge blanket (36"x36"), but toward the end, I was amazed at how much weight was pressing down on my lap. It should keep a squirmy little one quite contained. Now to box it up and get it delivered before the baby is.<br />
<br />
A note on the color. This overcast day got away from me before I thought to take some pictures, so the pictures taken indoors make this blanket look way grayer than it is. While that's not a bad thing, the more purplish-looking image is the one that's closest to the true color. Maybe just a tad more vivid than real life.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/57318c5d9f72668963ffc30f/t/5798abb5d482e91ef6cea336/1476317847110/?format=750w" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/57318c5d9f72668963ffc30f/t/5798abb5d482e91ef6cea336/1476317847110/?format=750w" width="229" /></a></div>
Coming up, I'm going to be making a version of the Marius sweater (or <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariusgenser" target="_blank">Mariusgenser</a>), a design that was popular in the 1950s in Norway. We're planning to go skiing with my siblings and their families this next December, and I'm going to need something for the slopes. Or at least something to lounge around in <i>après-ski</i>.<br />
<br />
I won't be using this exact pattern, but it is one from Sandnes, the company that owns it. And I've ordered Peer Gynt yarn too for that extra bit of authenticity. I had to get it from the UK -- couldn't figure out a source in the US. Traditional Marius sweaters are made in the colors of the Norwegian flag -- blue body, white stranded patterning, and red around the collar and joining the sleeves. I'm going to be making a version with black, white and gray. Because that's me. I have the pattern already, and although it's been translated from Norwegian, some of it is a little sketchy on the details. This is going to take some careful reading and planning.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-7297677864926509042017-02-05T17:09:00.000-06:002017-02-05T17:11:19.902-06:00Skål!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/31919806833_1227610a66_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="525" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/31919806833_1227610a66_d.jpg" width="525" /></a></div>
<br />
Blog posting has been on hiatus while I worked on some super secret projects. One is now out of the bag -- so I can finally write something about it!<br />
<br />
My good friend from college, Tom, wanted to have a Viking-themed birthday this weekend. When I first heard about it, I started planning a little something for some of us guests to wear. Viking helmets! There were plenty of free patterns on Ravelry, but I settled on <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20080924031324/http://rsveverka.com/chileconyarne/2008/09/08/viking/" target="_blank">one by Becky Veverka</a>. Inspired by some of the pictures on Ravelry, I followed modified instructions by Ruth (<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/KnitNannyRuth/viking-hat" target="_blank">KnitNannyRuth</a>).<br />
<br />
I got some Berocco Vintage yarn at the newly moved and re-opened Hill Country Weavers. My original plan was to make three hats with three different-colored detachable braided beards. In the middle of last week, I'd realized I'd been a bit too ambitious and ditched the beard idea. I did make one prototype, but it was too heavy, too hot, used to much yarn and ended up looking like a dead muppet. It was just wrong. So hats only it was.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/765/32733669115_19b00311c1_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/765/32733669115_19b00311c1_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The hats were pretty easy to knit up. One hank of gray yarn made exactly two hats with just a little left over. Then one each for the gold and ivory on the horns -- I could make a whole herd's-worth more of those. I did one fewer series of 9-row repeats up the front of the hat, so that the decreasing started after two bobbles/rivets instead of after three. I wanted to these to look more helmet-like than hat-like and didn't want them to come down too far down the side of the head. I found the circumference worked well for a big melon like mine. The horns were pretty easy and quite clever, using the natural curl of the stockinette stitch to make the gold rings that attached the horns to the head. Short-row shaping made the horns curve naturally. It's really a pretty simple design with a lot of wow factor. So fun to make!<br />
<br />
They were a big hit last night. We met at the <a href="http://www.shipandshield.com/" target="_blank">Ship & Shield</a> in Houston, played some games, and feasted on all kinds of tasty things like pickled herring, wild boar and, of course, drinkables. Tom had a good time and guests enjoyed passing the hats around for photos. In the above photo, Jeff, Shelly and myself model all three. I hope the staff at the pub wasn't too offended. As many of you may know, there is little evidence that Vikings actually wore horned helmets. But really, when you picture a Viking, what comes to mind?<br />
<br />
If you're looking for something fun and easy to knit, I can recommend this highly. Perfect for the young and the young at heart. Happy birthday, Tom!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-68852094183374153272017-01-08T17:43:00.000-06:002017-01-09T18:50:39.018-06:00Svenson<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/324/31820283960_39b6056c63_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/324/31820283960_39b6056c63_z_d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
I worked hard all day adding the neckband and working a tubular bind-off to finish my Svenson Pullover.
From start to finish, this project took exactly a month. Some kind of record for me, but I never would have got it done in such time if I hadn't had a long break between semesters. These frigid past few days have been very motivating, too.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/561/32157398186_0672921c25_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/561/32157398186_0672921c25_z_d.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
This is a great pattern. Lots of challenges, yet memorizable. I've always wanted a moss stitch sweater. Now I've got that and then some! The way the pieces were designed with purl gutters next to the edge of the sleeves and the moss stitch up against the body pieces made it very easy to figure out how to seam things together. Bonus: with this Arbor yarn, you can actually use it for the seaming, something not advised with Brooklyn Tweed's Loft and Shelter lines. The raglan decreases on the sleeves and body were half-versions of the double 1-over-2 cables done on the body so when they were seamed together they came together like zippers. That was supposed to be the effect, anyway. Not sure I got it exactly right, but for the most part I think the seams are fairly invisible. A lot of clever thought went into this design.<br />
<br />
It's styled on the slim side, which I'm not always, so do be aware of that. The sleeves cling a bit, which I'm not used to, but find I don't really mind. I added 1.25 inches to the body length and might have done well to add even another inch. I also added an inch or so to the sleeves, and they're just right. A person commented on Ravelry that all the modeling shots show the sleeves pushed up, so it's hard to get an idea of how long the sleeves actually are on a person. Long ago it was pointed out to me that it's important to note what's <i>not</i> showing in the photographs. Do none of them show the back? Is the model always hunched over in a funny way? I'm not saying that's going on here, but I, too, noted the sleeve position. Since may arms tend toward <a href="https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/find-a-grave-prod/photos/2011/1/26543592_129403028022.jpg">Charlotte Greenwood</a> proportions, I have a habit of adding a bit of length to sleeves in patterns. That's not always worked in the past, but this time it was a good call.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/574/31385505643_a0b61db782_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/574/31385505643_a0b61db782_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
It was also pointed out that the neck opening seemed a bit wide. Once the sleeves were seamed on, there was indeed a very large head hole at the top. After adding the half-twisted rib neckband, it closed in quite a bit, but I think most people would definitely want to wear a collared shirt under this. I wouldn't call it a boat neck, but it is a bit broad. I suppose that could be mitigated by making the ribbing in the neckband longer, but at some point the proportions might start looking wrong. I don't mind it the way it is at all.<br />
<br />
I steam-blocked the pieces as I went along, although I think I might still wet-block this before I wear it. I got the gauge called for and all the pieces fit. I just need a tad more roominess for this to be perfect. I'm thinking it'll be good to get back to campus tomorrow and away from holiday snacking.<br />
<br />
Oh, and I should mention -- looking at these pictures, this last one is the most true to the actual color.<br />
<br />
So happy to have this done. Here's hoping the cold snap of the last week wasn't our entire winter. I need more chances to wear this before the heat creeps back. And please, everyone -- have a wonderful new year with lots of knitting and coziness!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-35747363419760424072016-12-31T17:34:00.002-06:002016-12-31T17:37:05.500-06:00Auld Lang Twine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/658/31201248553_33e43dceac_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/658/31201248553_33e43dceac_z_d.jpg" width="533" /></a></div>
<br />
It's the last day of the year, and I realize I haven't checked in for a while. I made some progress on a new project that I wanted to share.<br />
<br />
This is the back (left) and front (right) of the <a href="https://www.brooklyntweed.com/shop/svenson/" target="_blank">Svenson Pullover</a> by Jared Flood, appearing in the <a href="https://www.brooklyntweed.com/patterns/?fwp_collections=winter-2017" target="_blank">Winter 2017</a> collection. I'd wanted to make a cabled pullover for myself. I'd made a few in the past, one for Jeff and a more abstract one for me, but they are way to big for us these days. I'm making the 43 1/4" size using Brooklyn Tweed's Arbor in the color Humpback. It's perhaps the most perfect brownish gray ever.<br />
<br />
The stitch definition with this yarn is amazing. So glad I splurged and went with the yarn called for in the pattern. I love the moss stitch panels on the sides, the larger horseshoe cables and the smaller honeycomb cabling in the center. There are little purl stitches at the top of each honeycomb cell that add a cool bit of extra dimensionality. Between these two motifs are mirrored side-by-side 1-over-2 cables that make a pleasant ladder pattern. The sleeves are raglan, and where they are sewn to the body, the seam runs up the middle of a set of these ladders that will basically zip together as the whole things is assembled. The design is quite thoughtful in this way. I've never made a sweater using this construction, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how it all fits together. I started the left sleeve this afternoon.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/478/31636533800_5094b119ec_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/478/31636533800_5094b119ec_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Over the past few days we've played host to my dear friends Janelle and Sharon and their boys. Sharon and I were good friends from college days and Janelle is the person that got me interested in knitting so many years ago. I can't thank her enough for that.<br />
<br />
In addition to being an accomplished knitter, Janelle is also quite the spinner. What she knows about fibers and how they behave. She's the best person to go yarn shopping with. And, she brought me a little something that she spun recently. Can't wait to figure out what to do with it. It's a beautiful 2-play Jacob yarn in a lovely shade of brown. What can I say -- she knows me! And it's been wonderful seeing their boys grow up. Glad that they get to come to Texas every so often.<br />
<br />
It was so great having them here. And most of the old college gang was able to get together for a pre-New Year's party as well. Even those who were home ill were able to Facetime in -- ah, technology.<br />
<br />
I'm looking forward to the new year and all it may bring. Here's to a fruitful, fun and fiber-filled 2017!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-16010612134688523972016-11-27T17:25:00.000-06:002016-11-27T18:39:45.570-06:00Warm Head, Warm Heart<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5336/31168594281_ef04439c6d_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5336/31168594281_ef04439c6d_z_d.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<br />
After getting some big projects finished, I've been able to focus on some smaller, more quickly completed projects lately. Since last posting, I've made two hats. The first, above, is the Fimmel Hat, part of a kit (#2) from <a href="http://dalegarnnorthamerica.com/" target="_blank">Dale Garn North America</a> that was gifted to me. It's 100% alpaca, so it's quite warm, but it has a bit of a mohair-fuzzy halo to it, something you don't usually get when using regular sheep's wool. The stitch definition has a bit of a haze to it as well, although that might have has much to do with the tension issue I had with this as with anything else. There is a matching set of fingerless mitts that compliments that hat and uses many of the same motifs. I have enough yarn to knit them, so I might give them a try. But what is the one size of DPNs I need for this project? US Size 4. And what is the one size I don't have. Jeff doesn't believe me when I tell him this.<br />
<br />
While this is a really cool hat, it's not for me. I'm thinking of donating it and the accompanying mitts to my family's summer reunion silent auction.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5686/30475680703_9bf0a8325e_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5686/30475680703_9bf0a8325e_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
The second hat was also from some gifted yarn. It's the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mendia-hat" target="_blank">Mendia Hat</a> by Ambah O'Brien, made with Madelinetosh Tosh Merino DK in the Whiskey Barrel colorway. This yarn makes knitter look so good! It's a fun fast knit, with a lace chevron pattern through the middle -- which I had to do over three times to get right. If you follow the pattern thoughtfully, you get a chevron pattern. If you think, "meh -- I know what I'm doing," you get diamonds. I did this twice.<br />
<br />
I worried that my pale, bald head would look weird through the lace holes, but the fabric is pretty thick due to the twisted stitch ribbing, and it doesn't look bad at all. I made the large size in the slouchy version. Not sure if I can carry that off, but I really do like it and it is super warm. I'm wearing it right now in my house, hoping it will bring on the cooler weather.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5617/30476140003_9e34b88e6d_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5617/30476140003_9e34b88e6d_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And now for the warm hearts.<br />
<br />
Jeff and I have been out of town for the last several Christmases, so we haven't bothered putting up a tree. Which means this is only the second time I've gotten to use the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/6f3j5" target="_blank">julekuler ornaments</a> that I made in the summer of 2012.<br />
<br />
We usually put up our tree (yes, it's artificial) on the Sunday after Thanksgiving. We had a great time with his family in Fort Worth and Dallas this weekend, but were eager to get home to start getting our house in shape for Christmas. We spent the morning listening to jazzy yuletide tunes, setting up the tree and getting things decorated in general. It was a relaxing end to a fun weekend. As usual, getting ready for Christmas brings back a lot of happy memories, and has it's therapeutic properties, too. I'm really looking forward to all the friends that will be visiting us this year.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZhYqpQS88QEznqV8xIQrSZoUjkK1TXi0YkIKa8GWfFbZxPs8tBYb-brIG9IUn09Gy8h8s1AbqiK9r6ix23yOq082X8-6zhB0j3grJxn9-Si-E2owsHM2nRSwBxmvg58s-UyJ/s1600/IMG_1487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZhYqpQS88QEznqV8xIQrSZoUjkK1TXi0YkIKa8GWfFbZxPs8tBYb-brIG9IUn09Gy8h8s1AbqiK9r6ix23yOq082X8-6zhB0j3grJxn9-Si-E2owsHM2nRSwBxmvg58s-UyJ/s320/IMG_1487.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
And finally, when Jeff's cousin invited us up to Thanksgiving at her house (which was amazing, of course), she sent this photo of her daughter, wrapped up in the <a href="http://ravel.me/Steven/imgta" target="_blank">Tamarix Quilt</a> (really a blanket) that I knit for her when she was born. I can't believe that she's nearly six years old now. I also can't believe that this is still one of her favorite things -- and that it has held together so well. Apparently, it's a nap-time essential for her. It was so great to see her this weekend playing with her little cousins and seeing how much she's grown up.<br />
<br />
I'm really enjoying this holiday season so far, and it's only just getting underway. Here's hoping we all have a wonderful end of the year, full of hope, beauty, and the promise of good things to come.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37621656.post-59814001741134200542016-11-17T16:47:00.000-06:002016-11-18T13:46:18.349-06:00Happy 10th Blogiversary to Me!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCwb0yAzu3KxZCiSR89CacvkeHeyPf4AmW6C4sE8-ylBq1UxeMA32DMGE_rkdLoMGomaIE0_eYARi2hSsDwqG7riv1YKNTzzkFGLvHcl-Kj19kM9aTbNCLB2s8VeoZfa81I4L/s1600/10-years-birthday-cake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCwb0yAzu3KxZCiSR89CacvkeHeyPf4AmW6C4sE8-ylBq1UxeMA32DMGE_rkdLoMGomaIE0_eYARi2hSsDwqG7riv1YKNTzzkFGLvHcl-Kj19kM9aTbNCLB2s8VeoZfa81I4L/s400/10-years-birthday-cake.jpg" width="550" /></a></div>
<br />
Janelle recently mentioned getting some handy information from the depths of <a href="http://tt820.blogspot.com/">her knitting blog</a>, and it inspired me to look and see how long I'd been doing this. As fate would have it, today is the 10th anniversary of the first post of Knitting Sweaters & Sitting Still!<br />
<br />
I've almost abandoned this blog a few times. Blogging isn't really the thing it used to be. There are so many more social media outlets for getting your knitting information out there that I wasn't aware of back in 2006. And there was no <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/" target="_blank">Ravelry</a>, so the blog was an important part of the way I tracked my progress as a knitter. But I find I still kind of need it. Writing a bit about the things I'm making is useful. It helps me put my work in context, and think about projects and how they relate to the world around me. Not that my knitting is changing the world, but it has changed me.<br />
<br />
So I'll probably keep this going for a while, although it's obvious I've posted less and less over the years. In the last two months of 2006 I wrote more posts than I have in the first 11 months of 2016. But 10 years is a pretty big milestone. To celebrate, here are some of my favorite photos of projects from over the last 10 years.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1073/1347220923_458f79a186_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1073/1347220923_458f79a186_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>
2006 - Moss Sweater for Jeff</b>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1160/1394060624_97a04ed7d4_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1160/1394060624_97a04ed7d4_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2007 - Double Scoop Sweater for Gracie</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3054/3113025755_5a3ba040ac_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3054/3113025755_5a3ba040ac_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2008 - Garter Stitch Throw for Jim & Carolyn</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3412/3204593056_9daaa5464d_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3412/3204593056_9daaa5464d_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2009 - Perfectly Plain Vest</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5210/5230113542_175bd036e0_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5210/5230113542_175bd036e0_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2010 - Tamarix Quilt for Emory</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7156/6396317805_391e632838_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7156/6396317805_391e632838_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2011 - Baby Surprise Jacket, also for Emory!</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7131/7840836228_f7f1526ebe_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7131/7840836228_f7f1526ebe_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2012 - 55 Christmas Balls</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7400/9216260099_21478506a6_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7400/9216260099_21478506a6_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2013 - Grettir Sweater for Michael</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3956/15580441676_8861e6323e_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3956/15580441676_8861e6323e_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2014 - Machrihanish Vest</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/326/19004974486_d066103ed0_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/326/19004974486_d066103ed0_z_d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2015 - Moorish Stripe Socks</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8420/30228132846_e1433877ea_z_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8420/30228132846_e1433877ea_z_d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>2016 - Shady Marmalade Throw</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12